As a kid, I dabbled in tie-dye, with kits of what I realize now were most likely horrendously poisonous packets of color. But for all their toxicity, the colors did come out significantly more vibrant than when, later on, I experimented with a variety of flowers and leaves that did little more than to turn white fabric a dull, washed-out tan color. Which only teaches me that I should sign up ASAP for one of Maria Elena Pombo’s workshops.
The designer launched natural dye company Fragmentario in 2016 out of her studio in Bushwick, Brooklyn, where she also sells DIY dying kits and teaches workshops on how to use natural products to create gorgeous dyes for textiles and clothes. The success of those workshops has inspired her to expand her base to Europe, where throughout August and September she’s traveling through Spain and Italy to offer up her services. Fragmentario and other companies like it are indicative of a growing trend in fashion: the belief that what we put on our bodies should be as pure as what we put in them.
The final result of the workshop that @igbinewekahenry and I held for the past two days: an installation to stay at La Grotta, the historical park where @laguarimba is held. • We used new & old fabrics and old clothing donated by fellow New Yorkers (thank you @elizabethlcline & @bredvad). All made from cotton & linen. • The first day we dyed the fabrics and garments using seeds/skins from Israeli avocados and skins from local Tropea onions, sparkling an interesting conversation about our connections with what we eat and wear, one that people like @foodandfibersproject are encouraging more and more. • We got some very vibrant pinks from the avocados and a crazy green from the onions. Participants had asked me what colors we would get beforehand and I told them that I couldn't be 100% sure, because the color will depend on many aspects including how the plant grew and just gave them a range. They were mind blown to see the fabrics that the prior day had been purple turn into green. • Yesterday participants organized themselves in pairs to each "weave" a part of the installation to leave at La Grotta. They didn't take away a product but a knowledge to carry on and spread around. I already saw some bringing their friends to show them what we did and explain the process. Excited to see what they do next ✨
Synthetic dyes, which you’ll find on just about 100-percent of all the clothes you wear, are made out of chemical compounds that can harm people working in the manufacturing of those clothes, as well as create skin irritations on the wearer’s skin.
Waterways are also at put risk during the process of manufacturing synthetic dyes, where too often untreated dye effluent gets dumped (directly or indirectly) into bodies of water like rivers or lakes.
After going over the principles of natural dyes yesterday, today we rinsed our fabrics and cut them into stripes thus converting them into "yarn" to then "weave" it back into the fence at La Grotta, the historical park where @laguarimba is held • Together with @igbinewekahenry, we explained students how to do this primitive method. The idea for the 2-day workshop was to foster learning while having fun and starting from very easy methods that will encourage learning more advanced techniques 📚 • After a brief explanation, our students got to work and our pre-teen student Georgia immediately said "this is so easy", causing me and @henry to smile at each other as we achieved our goal ✨ • Thank you students for coming and crafting this beautiful work and thank you @guarimba for creating these magical spaces where we can all learn from each other and share culture 🐒
Pombo told Mind Body Green she was shocked at how simple it was to use organic matter to lend gorgeous coloring to white fabrics. "We just tried with the onion skins first,” she said. “We placed some fabric in them and it was only a matter of hours before they were so vibrant."
Had a busy day preparing everything for the workshop tomorrow. Can't wait for the garden dyers to put the dots between what they eat and what they wear. An important (and often overlooked) relationship that the team at @foodandfibersproject is trying to make more commonplace. We will be using avocado pits from @avocaderia and onion skins from @bushwickfood to create a wonderful range of colors #foodandfiberstories 🍃🥑✨
Fruits and veggies such as those onion skins Pombo played around with, beet skins, spinach, orange peels, and red cabbage leaves can all make for beautiful, muted dyes for face paint, clothing, or even Easter eggs when the time comes.
Pombo is also a fan of using avocado pits to turn white fabric crimson, and color palettes offered by chamomile, hibiscus, and roses. Each of which, of course, won’t leach harmful chemicals right into your biggest organ: your skin.
Of course, when you’re mixing beet skins to dye your white dress red, you never know exactly what hue you’re going to end up with. And that can certainly cause some designers anxiety, given that they may hope to recreate the same item or style again and again.
Not so with natural dyes. Even avocado pits will create different shades depending on where the fruit was grown—and water will always affect the final color.
“I think that right now, not a lot of people know about natural dyes, but I think in five years people will become more aware,” Pombo told Mind Body Green. “We ask so many questions about our food. Why shouldn't this be next?"
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